DALMATIAN CRESTED GECKO

Species: Correlophus ciliatus.

Captive-bred: Yes

Age: Juvenile

Lifespan: In captivity, a crested gecko typically lives between 15 and 20+ years with proper care. In the wild, their lifespan is estimated to be shorter (around 10 to 15 years) due to natural predators, environmental stress, and disease.

Enclosure: For a juvenile or adult crested gecko, proper enclosure selection involves key size guidelines, setup types, and structural necessities: Enclosure Sizes * Juvenile (up to 12–15 grams): 8" x 8" x 12" to 12" x 12" x 18" vertical enclosure. (Using too large an enclosure for a small baby can make finding food difficult). * Sub-Adult to Adult (15+ grams): 18" x 18" x 36" vertical enclosure is the current recommended minimum standard for full-grown adults. Key Enclosure Types * Front-Opening Glass Terrariums: (e.g., Exo Terra, Zoo Med) Ideal for maintaining high humidity and providing clear visibility. * PVC Enclosures: Excellent at holding humidity and ambient heat, featuring lightweight construction and mesh tops for overhead lighting. * Acrylic Hatchling / Juvenile Cribs: Compact, well-ventilated acrylic enclosures designed specifically for safe grow-out phases. Essential Enclosure Features * Vertical Orientation: Crested geckos are semi-arboreal, needing height rather than floor space for climbing. * Proper Ventilation: A mesh top or dual-vent system ensures adequate airflow to prevent mold and stagnation between misting cycles. * Substrate & Cover: Bioactive soil mixtures or simple paper towels paired with heavy vertical foliage, vines, cork bark tubes, and elevated magnetic feeding ledges.

Decor: For a crested gecko, enclosure decor must focus on vertical structure, plant cover, and secure climbing surfaces to support their semi-arboreal lifestyle. Essential Decorative Elements * Vertical Climbing Structures: Cork bark tubes, hollow branches, ghost wood, and flexible jungle vines encourage natural climbing behaviors and provide hiding spots. * Foliage & Plant Cover: Aim for 50–70% plant cover in the upper half of the terrarium. Use silk/plastic hanging plants or live, gecko-safe plants like Pothos, Sansevieria (Snake Plant), Schefflera (Umbrella Tree), and Philodendron. * Elevated Ledges: Magnetic or suction-cup ledges placed high on the glass walls serve as feeding stations and primary basking/resting platforms. * Ground Cover & Hides: Coconut huts, cork flats, and mosses (like sphagnum moss) at the base provide humid microclimates for shedding.

Substrate: The best substrate for a crested gecko depends on whether you are prioritizing easy cleanup or building a naturalistic bioactive ecosystem: Recommended Substrates * Paper Towels: Ideal for juveniles, quarantine, or simple maintenance setups. They are cheap, easy to replace, eliminate the risk of accidental ingestion (impaction), and make monitoring droppings straightforward. * Bioactive Mixes / Tropical Soil: Best for naturalistic, planted enclosures. Commercial substrates (like ABG mix, BioDude Terra Fauna) or homemade blends (coco coir, peat moss, bark, and sphagnum moss) hold moisture extremely well to support humidity and live plant roots. * Coconut Coir / Fiber: A great middle-ground option for non-bioactive setups that still retains high humidity and looks natural. Drainage Layer (For Bioactive Setups) When using soil substrates, always install a 1- to 2-inch drainage layer (clay hydroballs, expanded shale, or Lava rock) at the bottom, separated from the soil by a fine mesh barrier. This prevents stagnant water from pooling in the dirt and rotting plant roots or breeding bacteria. Substrates to Avoid * Sand or Gravel: High risk of intestinal impaction if accidentally ingested during feeding, and does not retain humidity properly. * Cedar or Pine Chips/Shavings: Toxic aromatic oils that cause severe respiratory issues in reptiles. * Calcium Sand: Encourages geckos to eat it for calcium, leading to severe impaction.

Temperature: Crested geckos require moderate, ambient temperatures and do not require high heat like desert reptiles: * Ideal Range: 72°F to 78°F (22°C to 25°C) during the day. * Nighttime Drop: Safe down to 68°F to 72°F (20°C to 22°C). * Critical Heat Threshold: Above 80°F–85°F (27°C–29°C) is dangerous. Prolonged exposure to high heat leads to severe stress, overheating, and can quickly prove fatal. * Heating Source (If Needed): If room temperatures drop below 68°F, use a low-wattage heat ceramic emitter or deep heat projector connected to a thermostat to maintain ambient temperatures.

Humidity: Crested geckos require high humidity levels to support proper shedding, hydration, and overall respiratory health: * Target Humidity Range: 60% to 80% average ambient humidity. * Misting Routine: Mist thoroughly once or twice daily (typically in the evening when they become active). Allow a heavier misting at night followed by a dry-down period during the day. * The Dry-Down Cycle: The enclosure should drop to around 50% humidity for a few hours during the day. Constant 100% saturation without drying out causes bacterial growth, skin infections, and mold. * Water Drops for Hydration: Crested geckos rarely drink from standing water bowls; they primarily lick water droplets off leaves and enclosure walls after misting. * Humid Hide: Provide a moss-filled container (like damp sphagnum moss) to assist with clean shedding.

Feeding: * Diet: Feed a commercially prepared powdered Crested Gecko Diet (CGD)—such as Pangea or Repashy—mixed with water to a ketchup-like consistency. * Frequency: * Juveniles: Offer fresh CGD every 1–2 days. * Adults: Offer fresh CGD every 2–3 days. * Live Insects (Optional): Offer gut-loaded, calcium-dusted crickets or dubia roaches 1–2 times per week for extra growth and enrichment. * Hydration: Misting the enclosure provides drinking droplets; keep a small, shallow water dish available at all times.

Behavior: * Active Hours: Nocturnal/crepuscular; sleeps hidden in foliage by day and explores at night. * Movement: Uses adhesive toe pads to climb vertical surfaces; juveniles are energetic jumpers, while adults are generally slow and docile. * Color Changes: "Fires up" (darker, vibrant colors) when active, humid, or stressed, and "fires down" (paler tones) when resting. * Tail Dropping: Drops tail if frightened or stressed. Note: Tails do not grow back, but living without a tail ("frog butt") does not affect their health.

Breeding & sexing: Sexing Crested Geckos * Hemipenal Bulge: Males develop a distinct, swollen bulge at the base of the tail near the vent around 15–25 grams. Females remain flat. * Femoral Pores: Males possess a row of microscopic pitted scales (femoral pores) running horizontally between their hind legs, visible under magnification (jeweler's loupe) starting around 10–15 grams. * Juvenile Sexing: Unsexed juveniles are typically sold as "unsexed" or "possible/probable male/female" until they reach 15–20 grams, as early traits can be unreliable. Breeding Overview * Breeding Readiness: * Females: Minimum 40–45+ grams and at least 1.5 to 2 years old (breeding under-weight females leads to severe calcium deficiency and egg-binding). * Males: Minimum 35+ grams and at least 1.5 years old. * Clutch Size & Frequency: Females lay 2 eggs per clutch every 30–45 days during the spring and summer breeding season (typically 4–8 clutches per year). * Egg Laying Setup: Provide a moist lay box (a plastic container filled with damp peat moss or coconut coir) in the female's enclosure. * Incubation: Eggs are incubated in a damp substrate (such as vermiculite or Perlite mixed 1:1 by weight with water) at 70°F to 78°F (21°C to 25°C). Hatch time ranges from 60 to 100 days depending on temperature (cooler temperatures yield larger, stronger hatchlings). * Cooling Period: Females require a mandatory 3- to 4-month winter cooling period (drop temperature slightly to around 68°F–72°F and separate from males) to stop egg production and recover calcium reserves.

Venom / safety: Non Venomous